An Ohio 

Island 

Adventure

By Ron Coffey

You needn't travel to the ocean to visit attractive islands and interesting shores. For millions of Midwesterners, the islands and peninsulas of Lake Erie are easy to access and hard to get enough of.

My visit to a section of northern Ohio coast located about midway between Toledo and Cleveland proved to be a fascinating mixture of quiet, family-oriented destinations and pulsing funspots.

Kelleys Island, the largest of the Ohio islands, retains a quiet calmness and is perfect for bicycle riding, golf cart cruising, or simply lounging at one of the lovely bed-and-breakfast establishments that dot the island. The entire island has the distinction of being listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Kelleys Island has many natural wonders, including the scarred bedrock of Glacial Grooves State Memorial, carved by a glacier some 20,000 years ago. The patient naturalist may see egrets, herons, eagles and numerous other creatures at the island's parks and abandoned limestone quarries. From the lakeside back yard of Himmelblau House, my temporary Kelleys Island home, I watched an endless promenade of cormorants circling the island in an ancient ritual.

Lake Erie provides many recreational opportunities for visitors to the islands. I donned a snorkeling mask and went in search of one of the shipwrecks found near Kelleys Island, locating it only with the help of Capt. Rich James of Sea Wolf Tours. In the shallow, murky water I saw part of the engine and propeller of the Albert Y. Gowen, a freighter that sank in 1903.

A highlight of my visit to Kelleys was the opportunity to sail on the Red Witch, a 77-foot, two-masted schooner that charters from various Lake Erie ports. As we quietly cruised the lake under billowing sails in the tradition of the ancient mariners, I felt a sense of relaxation and grace.

Visible from Kelleys Island is South Bass Island, home of the renowned party community called Put-in-Bay. If you like to let down your hair, Put-in-Bay is just what the doctor ordered, especially on summer weekends.

The Beer Barrel Saloon claims to have the longest bar in existence. One Friday afternoon I entered the saloon with some fellow skeptics and squeezed through the crowd of patrons standing shoulder-to-shoulder. Shouting to be heard against sonic competition from a rock band, we observed the prodigious serpentine bar meandering through the immense establishment and became believers.

Accessible by ferries, jetboats, private watercraft and airplanes, South Bass Island bustles with activity throughout the warm weather months. You'll find a little bit of Key West here, from the music of local icon Pat Dailey to the playful spirit of a community that adds bubble soap to its picturesque water fountain.

Several bird's-eye views are available of South Bass Island. Griffing Flying Service offers tours from small airplanes, which afforded me an interesting view of a house made from the bow of a ship. I observed acres of trees and vineyards, and the chief landmark of the islands, the International Peace Memorial, which at 352 feet tall towers over the rest of the island. There, park officials and costumed interpreters explained the importance of Oliver Hazard Perry's naval victory in the War of 1812 and the remarkable peace that has existed between the U.S. and Canada ever since.

Fishing on Lake Erie has attained legendary status. Nearly every fisherman wants to test this great lake and see if the stories are true; I got my chance early one morning, courtesy of Capt. Mark Funderwhite aboard the Niagara. Since the unpredictable walleye were a 90-minute boat ride from us, we sought out the smaller but more convenient yellow perch. In the choppy water, each angler used a light rig fitted with three hooks. As my sinker neared bottom in about 30 feet of water, a perch instantly attacked, and I reeled him in. By morning's end we had a nice collection of perch in the cooler; that evening they provided a delicious main course.

Ohio's "north coast" is much like the islands, but accessible without a boat or plane ride, and has charms of its own such as the historic Marblehead Lighthouse, excellent wineries and colorful communities.

At the Firelands Winery, I learned how Lake Erie affects the climate and creates desirable conditions for growing grapes. Ed Boas, president of the Firelands cooperative, led a tour and explained how vintners create popular wines like cabernet sauvignon, gewurztraminer and pinot grigio.

Sawmill Creek Resort in Huron is a comfortable place from which to explore the area. The hotel-conference complex also features condominiums where a few lucky residents dock their yachts nearby. The property features a Tom Fazio-designed golf course that meanders along the edge of the Sheldon Marsh, a home to bald eagles, great blue herons and other marshland denizens, plus many species which visit the wetlands on their annual migrations.

At nearby Marblehead, legions of photographers and painters have made images of the picturesque lighthouse that has been in use since 1822. It is one of the few lighthouses that people can still enter, and the trek up 87 steps to the top is worth the effort.

A dining favorite in the Port Clinton area is the Mon Ami Restaurant and Historic Winery, which is noted for its sparkling wines and elegant food. Built in 1872, the restaurant offers guided tours featuring a pair of huge vaulted wine cellars.

Perhaps the most surprising place I visited on Lake Erie was Lakeside, one of America's last remaining Chautauqua-stye communities. Lakeside was established as a place to foster traditional Christian values while strengthening the quality of family life and fellowship by providing programs and services that offer opportunities for enrichment and growth.

Those lucky enough to stay at Hotel Lakeside or one the numerous cottages within the grounds enjoy a feeling of safety and a sense of family. Paved walkways along the lakefront, well-used shuffleboard courts and free entertainment (included in the price of the gate pass) make this destination a lovely escape from the hustle and bustle of the world outside the gates.

Lake Erie has a special allure that makes visitors want to return again and again. Each community that has grown up on the islands and shores of this freshwater sea has a special character and charm. To learn more about travel opportunities in northern Ohio, contact your travel agent, call 1-800-BUCKEYE or visit www.ohiotourism.com